Pontiac Sunfire (Repair Log)

[Abstract Hero]

So I started work on my car to fix a few of her problems the biggest being a horrible torque stealing rattle. I'm hoping it's just a crank bearing.

It's a 1997 Pontiac Sunfire with the 2.2 lt. I4
It's got a test pipe right now as well.

What I got done today:
Dropped the exhaust from the headers. Started pulling bolts from the starter which was blocking the oil pan and the oil pan itself.

[c0rr0sive]

2.4L I4 :-p

I am in the process of rebuilding my 2.4L, and have found that some parts such as the balancing shaft chain guide was incredibly worn, you SHOULD check that if your pulling the engine.

What I have done on mine and uploaded so far, you can even see the guide that has me a bit upset as I can't find the exact same one anywhere.
99 Grand Am | Facebook

EDIT: Stupid GM and using so many different engines. Your engine is the same type as my sisters 2.2 I4 in her truck. Very similar to the 2.4L Twincam. Hope the best for ya man, and if you have balance shafts, check that stupid chain guide. lol BTW, pray it's a rod bearing, not a crank bearing, and I want to suspect cylinder #3 for some reason.

[Abstract Hero]

Thanks Corrosive.
I've actually went over your build before and I've also seen your car on facebook I believe I recognized it when you commented on another member so now I know who I'm adding. :P
We're just hoping we won't have to pull the motor since we don't really have the equipment for it but I'll keep an eye out for any wear and tear like you say. I'm trying to be extremely optimistic that it's a rod bearing.


Got the starter out late last night and the pan is now loose but the passenger bottom motor mount bracket as well as the a/c compressor need to go.

[c0rr0sive]

I just have a feeling its a rod bearing, but if your hearing noise, and it is a bearing, chances are your gonna need machining, oversizing, and a few measuring tools. You do have a haynes/chiltons for that engine, right?

I actually learned something on my car, if you end up having to pull the engine due to crank bearings, don't seperate the TC from the flywheel in that little cavity, you can usually get access to the bolts through the hole where your starter is, just make sure you mark the flywheel/tc relation to each other.

[Abstract Hero]

I probably should get the book XP

The starter is almost on the opposite side of the block than the fly wheel so it may be different in a few ways either way it's already off. Let's hope I don't need to pull or machine. I think I'd call it quits after that.

[c0rr0sive]

Starter will always come into contact with the flywheel. The Flywheel sits outside the engine about one inch, and is only used for two things, the starter, and to connect to the torque converter. There is also a high chance you will NEED a 12 point socket set to remove the rod caps. If it's a 12 point nut, and you throw a 6 point socket on, say bye bye nut, and have fun getting it out of the socket.

[Abstract Hero]

Originally Posted by c0rr0sive

Starter will always come into contact with the flywheel. The Flywheel sits outside the engine about one inch, and is only used for two things, the starter, and to connect to the torque converter.

you know what your right my head ain't on too good today lol.

[c0rr0sive]

lol, it gets the best of us, that's why I posted about the possible need of a 12 point socket set... Lost a perfectly good socket over that incident...

[Abstract Hero]

So as it turns out, my moms fiance had broken a rib helping me and my brother push the car into the garage.

[c0rr0sive]

o.0 I do not wanna know how one accomplished this.